A few of my rods are now for sale on ebay HERE, including the rod pictured below,

the Atlantean Cross, double ended Healing Rod and the Autoelectromag Gun pictured below

Last Updated 4/08/2003

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People have asked me for more information on Atlantean crystal wands and tools, particularly my techniques for using and building them. As many people have found out about these tools from many different sources, some from reading books, some from intuition, some from modern day UFO reports, dreams, channelling etc. I cannot give information that will necessarily apply to people from all religions/schools of thought - so I will only describe my personal experiences and knowledge. Firstly I must tell you that my information comes mainly from a trio of books written by Michael G. Smith and Lin Westhorp, the books are Crystal Power by Michael G. Smith, Crystal Warrior and Crystal Visions by Michael G. Smith & Lin Westhorp. The designs shown on this page at any time are all variations on the basic designs presented in these three books - as this genre of psionic tool is intensely personal they advocate personal variations in design, colouration, decoration and materials. I strongly recommend that anyone interested in these devices try to acquire these books, at least Crystal Power, as this is the book that forms the foundation for the thought processes needed to operate these devices.

For those who are not familiar with the usage of such devices I will try to keep these instructions simple, I begin by describing the uses for these devices and how I personally prepare myself for using them.

I will make no official claims as to the effectiveness of these wands in their respective uses, but below is a brief description of how to make and use my favorite design of wand. Please note that the wand below is an advanced design of my own, based on the simpler models found in crystal power, which consist of a one foot length of 1/2inch copper pipe, you may have a shorter length of pipe if you wish. One end has a copper cap to fit the pipe, and the other end has a plain quartz crystal in to fit the pipe. The crystal is fitted using instant bonding glue such as Superglue found here in the UK, with little bits of leather pushed down inside to fill the gaps in between the crystal and the pipe, early designs required that you cut slots in the end of the pipe and bend it to fit the crystal, but that really is not necessary. So long as there is no free space between the sides of the crystal and the pipe it`s OK. As I said this is of my own design and is considerably more complicated in construction, using a few different fittings, magnets and crystal bits, the magnets and crystal shards are not totally necessary, but the magnets do seem to enhance the effectiveness of the rod.

The materials needed for the constuction of this rod are as follows:

• 2x 1inch connectors
• 4x 1inch to 3/4inch reducers
• small lengths of pipe to connect the fittings seamlessly
• 1 Quartz crystal approx. 1 1/2inch long, but of a diameter to fit inside the 1inch pipe, not the connector
• small pieces of leather for packing
• several small ceramic magnets to fit inside the 1inch pipe
• A Copper Cap to fit the 1inch pipe
• Instant bonding glue
• crystal chippings to fill the rod with (not necessary) if available

First of all cut short lengths of pipe, 2 pieces of 3/4inch pipe to fit into the small ends of the reducers, and 4 pieces of the 1inch pipe to attach the reducers to the connectors and the cap to the end. Roughen the ends of the pipe and the inside of the connectors/reducers so that when the glue hardens the bits will not fall apart. Start by fixing the crystal into the first piece of 1inch pipe, putting glue down the inside against the edges that come into contact with the pipe, cut pieces of leather and squash them down inside the gaps between the crystal and pipe, put glue onto the fitted leather to make it harden.

Glue the magnets together, not so that they are repelling each other, and wrap them in a piece of leather just enough to fit inside the 1inch pipe. Put 2 pieces of 1inch pipe into each end of a connector, shove the magnets into the pipe to see if it fits, if it does disassemble it and glue it all securely and re-fit the pieces until you are happy with it. Glue the parts together like this, first put a connector on the pipe containing the crystal, on the end out of which the point of the crystal projects. Glue the other end of the pipe ( the base of the crystal ) into the wide end of a reducer. Then a piece of 3/4 inch pipe into the small end of the reducer, then that into another reducer. Connect this in turn to one end of the pre assembled magnet pipe, then put the large end of another reducer onto the other end of the magnet assembly and attach another reducer to that one the same way as the one at the top, put the last piece of 1inch pipe into the reducer, and if you have some crystal chippings fill the rod before putting on the cap. When the cap is put on the rod becomes active, and once you are happy that it is all glued together satisfactorily you can put either shrink tubing, electrical tape or leather on the thinner parts of the rod i.e. around the reducers, you may also like to polish and varnish the rod so that it looks nicer.

Using rods:

Begin by relaxing, standing or sitting will do, make sure that both feet are firmly on the ground, take a few deep breaths and take some time to realize your connection with everything in existence. Begin by visualizing the earths fields of force a few feet from the ground, spanning the entire globe, flowing down from the sky down into the top of your head - coming in from the sun, stars and the entire universe. This same energy is flowing from within the earth, up through your feet. See this energy flowing thoughout your entire body, down your arms, into your hands and into the rod. Imagine it being stored in the rod, breathe the energy, it flows through all living things, it is the universal force of creation, particles that move faster than light, transcending space and time. Visualize the constant flow of this free energy, imagine it shooting out of the crystal, transforming situations, energies, matter - changing reality by the power of thought. To induce speedier healing in people, animals and plants, move the rod around the beings aura several times, whilst imagining the energy flowing through you into the affected areas, performing and speeding the necessary healing reactions. The same processes can be applied to the earth, healing polluted areas, transforming nuclear wastes at a faster rate by changing atoms on a subatomic level. The most basic process for using these rods is to charge them as described and imagining the beam spreading out and changing the world in ways that we can only imagine. Have fun!

The Autoelectromag Pistol and Aggressive Shield unit

AUTOELECTROMAG PISTOL:

The procedure for making the autoelectromag is similar to that of the standard rods, the gun simply being a modified rod mounted on a handle with a trigger mechanism built in.

The materials you need are as follows:

6-12 round magnets, to fit within your chosen diameter of barrel - my good AEM is about 3/4" dia.

Thick electrical wire - I used the type that is used for the household wiring - the thick grey 3 core type. I had to remove the grey coating - you find usually 2 insulated wires inside and one uninsulated wire, you just keep all of them and discard the grey plastic, don't strip the wires yet.

1 or 2 crystals to fit within the parts of the barrel, I used a double terminated one for the very tip and a single term. for the inner crystal.

A PTM (push to make) switch, the type that is only 'on' whilst you hold it down. not too big this will be the trigger.

2 'inline' capacitors of the same rating - does not matter what, just so long as they are fairly small.

A block of wood for the handgrip, or there is a particular submachine gun - i forget which one - that has a front handgrip that is suitable, it is the one that i based my handgrip on. The wood needs to be about 3/4" thick, or any thickness that you would feel comfortable with.  Draw on the shape for the grip and cut it out.  You will need to make a curved groove down the length of the top to hold the barrel comfortably. once it all fits together you can shape it more and smooth/polish it off.

2 screws long enough to go through the mounting part of the handgrip up into the barrel, or if you are a cheapo, 4 small crews and 2 copper straps to go over the barrel and down onto the handgrip - which are then screwed onto the grip to hold the barrel on.    

Insulation tape, leather, glue etc.

Copper tube, cap, reducers - connectors etc. for constructing the barrel - they are not necessary, but do add to the effect visually.

adequate tools, eg. saw, drill, soldering iron, solder, pliers etc.

First, do not glue anything until it is right!  Push the copper cap onto the end of the main tube,  find something that is of a smaller diameter than the main tube and wrap a length of wire around it (the stripped wire that is) into a coil, making sure that the each wind does not touch another until the coil is about 3 inches long. Slide the coil off and see if it will fit into the barrel with a little bit to spare (diameter wise that is), if it's ok solder a length of wire to each end of the coil (unstripped wire that is, make them about a foot each so you can cut off any excess later) and thread one length up through the inside, so that they both hang from one end.  Wrap insulation tape around the entire coil, just to stop it from touching the inside of the barrel.  Hold the coil against the tube to see where you will need to drill a hole for the insulated wires to come out from, making sure that the coil will be at the back of the barrel against the cap. drill the hole in the tube and push the coil inside so that you can easily thread the wires out through it. Assemble the magnets into a stack, so that they stick together obviously, and wrap them in insulation tape, drop them in the barrel in front of the coil, that is, towards the front - by the hole you drilled not the end with the cap. again, dont glue anything yet. put your crystal in the end, a double T if you are using one crystal or a single T if you are using two. leave a bit of space between the magnets and the crystal because you will want somewhere for the mounting screw to go in.  Don't forget - the crystal will be mounted the same way as in the rods, but if you are using two crystals leave a little bit of pipe sticking out over the crystal to attach a reducer/connector to. Now, as I said before if you are using one crystal, mark and cut the pipe at the appropriate length now, and as before if you are using two, cut it slightly longer. If using two crystals there are two variations on this bit

      Variation one: The kick.

        Put a reducer from your barrel size down to 1/2 inch on the end of the pipe, attach a small piece of 1/2 pipe in the reducer and then put another reducer on the end to make it back up to the barrel size. cut another small piece, but this time of the size of the barrel and insert that into the final opening in the other reducer.  put your double term. crystal in the end and put a single connector on the end also, so that is sticks out and protects the crystal tip from damage.  When you are happy with the assembly mount the d.t. crystal in the tube and glue the reducers etc together, but DO NOT mount the crystal or the reducers in the barrel yet.

      Variation two: Pass -thru.

        Attach a straight connector to the end of the barrel, add a piece of pipe the same diameter as the barrel, another connector, another piece - this time with the d.t. mounted in it and then another connector on the end to protect it. Assemble as before.

Now, back to the barrel.

on the tube, mark the spot where the screw hole will be drilled, between the crystal & magnets, make sure it is in line with the hole for the wires,  mark another spot on the end near the cap for the other screw hole.

With the handgrip cut out, you must try to drill through to the tube in the right places for the screws to go so that they meet the correct marks, once done, use a drill bit slightly smaller than the screws and drill the holes in the barrel.  Keep it in position where it will be when mounted and mark on the top of the handgrip where the wires come out.

Use a fairly large drill bit to drill down into the handgrip at that position to make a small chamber for the capacitors to go in, then drill from where the button will be - large enough to fit it - in towards the chamber.  Cut the wires shorter so that you can solder the capacitors to them in such a way that they will be in the chamber, attach one capacitor to a wire by the + end, and another by the - end.  Solder some more wire to the free ends of the capacitors - not to each other.

Finish assembling the barrel, glue on the cap, put the magnets in, pour some glue in to hold it, mount the crystal making sure it does not conflict with the screw holes and then attach the end piece assembled earlier.  Once it has all hardened you can put some leather or insulation tape around the exposed part of the main barrel and then screw the barrel on, making sure to put the wires and capacitors down through the chamber, and the free ends out through the switch hole.  Cut the wires off leaving enough exposed wire to work with as you solder one of the contacts on the button to each. It's best to check with a multimeter first to see that the switch operates in the way that you want it to.

Once soldered up, wrap insulation tape around the solder to make sure they do not cross-connect and shove it back into the hole, it it's not a tight fit you will need to pack the switch with something before glueing it in, just make sure not to get glue into the mechanism of the switch or it will get stuck on/off!  Stain/polish the handgrip and there you go!

AGGRESSIVE SHIELD

There are 2 minor variations of this, one has a fail-safe switch, the other does not, basic instructions are as follows.

Plastic, project box large enough to house your chosen crystal.

Crystal, double or single T

Flick-switch, or push-on/Push off type.

Jack plug and socket MONO, not STEREO (optional for failsafe)

2 Capacitors as for AEM

Wire as for AEM

Solder, Drill, insulation tape, Cotton wool, glue

Take the crystal and wind around some uninsulated wire, solder insulated wire to each end of the coil.  Wrap insulation tape around the coil.  To each free wire attach a capacitor, one by the + and one by the -.  To each capacitor attach another piece of wire, wrap tape around all solder points. To one wire attach one contact of the switch. now check with a meter etc. what connection to make to cause the circuit to be closed/on when the switch is in the required position. attach the other wire to that contact.  If you want the failsafe you don't attach the second wire yet.  Get the jack PLUG,  open it up or strip the wires and solder both connections together, so you get a loop - sort of. On the SOCKET, solder one connection to the connection on the switch, and the other to the last free wire.  Now when you put the PLUG in the SOCKET AND flick the switch it is on, otherwise it wont work without the plug in. The other circuit is just on/off, you connect them like this, switch - capacitor - crystal - capacitor - switch.   Drill holes in the box for the switch (and socket) and mount them, gluing them may be necessary.  Pack the crystal in with cotton wool and screw the case shut.  As easy as that.

Ok, firstly the failsafe plug on the ag. shield simply means that if you take the plug out it wont be able to be 'on'.  So if you have the plug nobody else can use the shield. The failsafe simply connects the two contacts in the socket by shorting them across inside, if its not in, the socket is an open loop, and so the circuit is not made - and the aggressive shield isn't.

Ordinarily you can't see the energy from any of the tools, unless you are very sensitive, or the energy that you created at a particular time was strong enough to manifest as visible light.  I have sort of percieved an incredibly faint glow from some of the tools, but usually you see the energy more in your mind than with your eyes.  If you can do remote viewing however, all of those energies are visible, and the shields are particularly good at blocking the perceptions of a remote viewer.

If you have read about shields and I am assuming that you have read crystal power - an ag shield can operate the same as a passive shield  when it is disconnected, simply by virtue of containing a crystal.  In fact, some of the best shielding techniques simply involve concentration and work just as effectively without crystals at all.  One of the things i have learned with time is that as you learn and develop your skills with energy tools you find that the actual physical tools do not matter so much, they simply seem to
act as a focus.  They do help in converting energy from one form to another most of the time, but if the effect is only to be subtle - a strong mind and determined will would suffice. My greatest successes have been in healing, only minor things - but success
nonetheless. Secondly remote viewing is easier with some tools.  Getting to sleep is easier for me if i'm holding one of the tools, something to do with slowing down the brainwaves i suppose.  Psychokinesis is possible, but I have found it useless to try and get someone else to use my techniques, though one thing to do is this:

Get a cork, push a needle through it so that it stands with the needle point up. Get a straw, cut it to about 2 inches long, bend it in half, straighten it out then flatten it and cut a hole by cutting a u in the middle. Re -shape the straw and it should be able to rest on the point of the needle going up into the hole and resting on the inside of the straw.  Now you have an object that is of very low friction and is not affected by magnets, if you try to minimise draughts you should be able to move it just by concentrating in various ways.

First, I do not know exactly what kind of energy is emitted by the tools. It is however not anything that can be directly measured such as photons, electrons, alpha, beta, gamma or other.  Sometimes the energy can be felt as heat, or seen faintly as light but I believe that the energies used in the tools are the so called tachyon particles/waves. With an aem, you must visualise as you would using just a rod, but when you push the button an amplification is triggered.  The thing about an aem is that is is based on the Psionic 'Black box' as is the ag shield.  This means that by visualising the effect, you can simply point the gun at a photo of
the target and shoot - the energy is 'beamed' directly at the target without traversing the space between you and them, this part is automatic (though you can achieve the effect without a photo, but more concentration is required).

Crystal Warrior is available to order from most good bookshops (one good international Internet bookshop is Amazonbooks.com) they are all published by llewellyn Publishing. Crystal warrior is authored by Michael g. smith & lin westhorp. ISBN 0-87542-727-8 and crystal vision (a re-release of crystal spirit) is by the same authors - ISBN 0-87542-728-6.  Crystal Vision contains details on more rod-type things and how to build the black box, please do not ask me for instructions on how to build or use them. I feel that they are not as easy to use as the rods, and too much can go wrong in using them - that is not to say that the rods are foolproof. 

A new device of my own design: The tripod. This is made from 3 force rods with T pieces in two places on each. They are welded together in such a way as to form this frame. It can be worn on the arm by gripping the crossmembers or with the arm outstretched. When placed on a surface it seems to give off some slight vibration when touched. When worn on the arm gripping the crossmembers, the field seems focused about 5 inches from the tip of the rods at a point central to the three, this field can be extended just by thinking about the tripod. It also sends a wide beam in the same way as the rods do. When worn with the arm outstretched it produces an extended diffuse field that acts as an extension of ones own enery field.

Visit http://www.llewellyn.com for more book info